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5 personalities of the Portuguese Camino de Santiago you have to meet

Caminho Português Team Updated on 7 min read

Camino waymarker with the scallop shell and yellow arrow, where the personalities of the Portuguese Camino cross paths

The personalities of the Portuguese Camino de Santiago say as much about the route as its old towns, its climbs or your aching legs. After all, the Camino is made above all of people. So this article is about them: legends, hospitaleros and walkers with big hearts.

They are, or were, real flesh-and-blood people. Each one is different in their own way, but they all share the Camino. So, as a tribute, we tell you who they are, what they mean to us and where to find them.

1. Barbosa, from Café do Barbosa

Where: on the way out of Vairão

If you are leaving Vairão, you cannot miss his terrace. It is small, but it seems to welcome the whole community of pilgrims passing through. In addition, people often sing and play music from all over the world. So it is impossible not to stop. You will find the café right at the start of the stage from Vairão to Barcelos.

However, the real magic begins when you meet Barbosa, the owner of the café that bears his name. Because he genuinely loves walkers, he makes you feel at home from the very first minute.

A quick chat with him is worth the trip. After all, it ranges from the art festival he created in Vila do Conde to his many adventures around the world. In other words, he is the spirit of the Camino in person. Stop by and tell him we sent you.

2. Dom Pepe, in Padrón

Where: Padrón

Thankfully, the Camino passes through Padrón, because that is how you get to meet Dom Pepe. You reach it at the end of the stage from Caldas de Reis to Padrón. His house is a safe haven for pilgrims from all over the world. In fact, its walls are covered in gifts and scarves that walkers have left behind.

Even so, the decoration only hints at the man behind it. Pepe wins you over straight away with his kindness and a greeting full of enthusiasm. To say thank you, you can write in one of his notebooks, already full of signatures from pilgrims like you.

In Pepe’s own words, going to Padrón and not meeting him is like going to the Vatican and not seeing the Pope.

So, before the last stage to Santiago, take the chance to make a friend for life.

3. Carlos Rios, the pilgrim of a lifetime

Where: along the Camino and in our Facebook group

We have not yet had the luck to meet him in person. However, anyone who spends some time in our Facebook group recognises him at once. After all, he is the image we all have of a pilgrim. And that is no accident. He has walked the Camino de Santiago for 30 years and even went to the Vatican and back.

As well as knowing the trail like few others, he protects it every day. That is why he is one of the best-known personalities of the Portuguese Camino de Santiago. He even took part in an academic article about the Camino.

There, he explained that the Camino is not just a trip or a bit of fun. On the contrary, it calls for respect for the journey of every pilgrim heading to Santiago de Compostela. Because it is a time of self-discovery, it also means giving up some comfort. Nobody knows this better than him, and we hope to cross paths with him one day on one of his journeys.

4. The Duas Marias, in Santiago de Compostela

Where: Alameda Park, Santiago

Now, on to the city that always awaits us. The Duas Marias (the Two Marias) have no direct link to the Camino. Even so, they are part of Santiago de Compostela and recall Spain’s recent past.

Statue of the Two Marias in Alameda Park, Santiago de Compostela
The statue of the Two Marias in Alameda Park, Santiago de Compostela.

In Alameda Park there is a statue of two women walking arm in arm, dressed in bright colours. That is them. Sisters as different as they were inseparable, they were a phenomenon on the city’s streets in the 1950s and 1960s. They went out every day at lunchtime. Thanks to their clothes and their flirtatious remarks to students, they stood out in the crowd.

Behind the colours, however, lies a story of violence. During the dictatorship, the regime persecuted part of their family for belonging to anarchist movements. Then, to find out where those relatives were, the authorities tortured and raped the sisters. For many, that is what shaped their behaviour. Today, as a statue, they walk freely through the city, without fear.

5. Saint James, the Apostle who gave the Camino its name

We could not finish without the man who gave his name to all of this: the Apostle James. He was the brother of John, also an apostle, and the two became known as the “sons of thunder” because they were impulsive and combative.

According to some traditions and legends, James chose Galicia to preach the Gospel. However, the mission did not go as he hoped, and he ended up with only 9 disciples and few followers. So he left two of his closest followers to spread Christianity and returned to Judea, where he was put to death.

We tell the rest in the history of the Camino de Santiago. There you will find the Catholic traditions behind the Camino as you know it today.

You are one of the personalities of the Portuguese Camino too

As you have seen, the personalities of the Portuguese Camino de Santiago leave their mark on us and stay in our memory. And, with every step, you become part of this story too. In fact, that is why we give a voice to pilgrims like Carlotta, who went from volunteer host in Porto to solo pilgrim. We also tell the story of Luís, who has already walked 29 Caminos de Santiago.

The Camino is made of people. And, from your very first step, you are one of them.

For more stories, join our Facebook group. There you will find a community of more than 110,000 pilgrims who share your passion for the Camino.

Frequently asked questions about the personalities of the Portuguese Camino

Can I meet these personalities on the Portuguese Camino de Santiago?

Yes. Vairão, Padrón and Santiago de Compostela are all on the route. You just need to plan your stages well to cross paths with these living stories.

Is there a tradition at Café do Barbosa or at Dom Pepe’s house?

Yes. At Café do Barbosa there is music and conversation. At Dom Pepe’s house, pilgrims leave mementos and write in the notebooks as a way of saying thank you.

What is the story behind the statue of the Two Marias?

The statue honours two sisters who, despite political repression, kept up a vibrant presence on the streets of Santiago. Today, they are a symbol of freedom and memory.

Who was the Apostle James and what is his link to the Camino?

James was one of the apostles of Jesus and, according to tradition, he preached in Galicia. His tomb in Santiago de Compostela gave rise to the Camino.

How can I meet other personalities of the Portuguese Camino?

Join the Caminho Português de Santiago group on Facebook, a community of more than 110,000 pilgrims who live and share the spirit of the Camino.

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