Stage 2 of the Spiritual Variant

It begins in the silence of the monastery: you cross the churchyard, pick up the arrows and, almost immediately, you plunge into the valley of the Armenteira river.

This is where the series of mills on the Ruta de la Pedra y la Auga begins. Moíño de Bouza is one of the mills identified by name along the route - part of a group with dozens of restored mills and panels explaining the trade. It's a good stop to get a feel for the area's milling tradition before heading downstream.

A shaded riverside trail, footbridges and stone bridges, waterfalls and more than 30 windmills - a magical start and almost always downhill, perfect for loosening up after stage 1. The PR-G 170 signs are clearly visible, but beware of the wet/slippery ground by the river (shoes with a good grip help). There are plenty of rest areas, small interpretive panels and photogenic nooks and crannies.

Once you leave the riverside forest, the scenery opens up to vineyards, villages and calmer riverbeds - you're in the Val do Salnés, the birthplace of the Albariño. The route crosses Meis and Ribadumia and continues through parks and fields to Pontearnelas, just a few kilometers from the sea. Many pilgrims describe this half of the day as peaceful, with a few occasional cafés to refuel.

You arrive by the estuary, passing beaches and parks to the center of Vilanova. Here you can visit the Valle-Inclán House-Museum (the writer was born in the town), take a stroll through the historic center and end the day with seafood from the estuary and a glass of Albariño - a recurring suggestion among pilgrims who stay here before the sea leg of the Traslatio. Tomorrow (Traslatio boat): confirm times and places today to avoid surprises.